Posts from the ‘Green’ Category

Tomatoes May 17, 2011


TBerrys Tomatoes are growing well.  This morning I saw at least 6 tomatoes hanging on one bush.  I am getting ready to go ahead a pick some of the biggest ones shown here tomorrow.  For Fried Green tomatoes.  I just last week fertilized them with Lime, 10-10-10, and Magnesium Sulphate.  Last week we also had a good rain shower to water it all in well.  Today all the vegetables are looking great.  I can’t wait to taste this big tomato tomorrow.

Picture May 17, 2011 First picking yes!!

Picture May 17, 2011 pictured here are 4 tomatoes hanging together making it at least 6 or more tomatoes on the bush.

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Gypsy Sweet pepper 5-17-2011


TBerrys Garden!!!  May 17th I see just the tip of this my Gypsy Sweet Pepper.  This is the first for me as to ever growing them.  Last week I put some Magnesium Sulphate or (Epsom Salt)on them and all my pepper bushes.   Aprox a tablespoon is all I put per potted bushe.  They have greened up quickly.  Last year I learned about adding Magnesium to my peppers when they seem to be yellowing.  Thanks to one of my blog comments.  Thanks again for the tip.  I am this year also trying this on my tomatoes along with the of course putting lime that tomatoes bushes love.  So far my tomatoes and peppers are looking great.  More info on Peppers, fertilizing etc.   Click More info Epsom Salts

Picture May 17, 2011. This is an image after applying Magnesium Sulphate a week ago.

May 17, 2011 Gypsy Sweet Pepper In Bloom.

Scuppernong Grapevine (Muscadine)


 

This is a borrowed picture of Scuppernong Grapes

The scuppernong is a large variety of muscadine (Vitis rotundifolia). This grape species has the distinction of being the first grape to ever be actively cultivated in the United States. It was declared the state fruit of North Carolina in 2001 The grape was named after the Scuppernong River of North Carolina, where it was first discovered. The word Scuppernong is from the Algonquian Indian word ascopo which means “sweet bay tree.” The fruit grows where temperatures seldom fall below 10  Fahrenheit.

Over 100 years of breeding has resulted in several bronze cultivars such as Carlos, Doreen, Magnolia and Triumph, they are distinguished by being perfectly flowered, which means the vine now produces male and female flowers. Opposed to the Scuppernong variety which only has female flower parts. The oldest cultivated grapevine in the world is the 400 year old scuppernong “Mother Vine” growing on Roanoke Island, NC 

Scuppernong is usually a green or bronze color and is similar in appearance and texture to a white grape, but rounder and about 50% larger. It was first known as the ‘big white grape. The skin is very thick and tart and several small green seeds are found in each grape. The pulp is viscous and sweet and the seeds are bitter – the most desirable part of the scuppernong is the sweet juice. The vine is an exceptionally strong grower, and its wood is the envy of the grape family.

Muscadines have a high tolerance to diseases and pests. There are no insect enemies, or fungus diseases that attack the fruit. Although black rot sometimes attacks the leaves in the spring, but never enough to affect the growth of the vines, or to cause any apparent detriment to a vine when given proper care. The blooms open during the first part of June, and the grapes ripen during September.

As with all grapes, muscadines need full sun with good airflow and proper drainage,  As with all grapes, muscadines need full sun with good airflow and proper drainage.  This grapevine can grow from  60 to 100 feet and should be planted 8 to 11 feet apart. 

It can be rooted so you can have more grapevines.  In rooting Scuppermong  grape vines, the first step is to look over the grapevine in mid-summer and find a cane that is in season.  Bend the cane to the ground and make sure that it is long enough to lie on the ground leaving the tip free.  Then score the stem in four or five places with a sharp knife where the brance touches the ground. Mound soil over the cane, leaving the tip uncovered.  Lay a brick or push down two u-shaped wires to hold the cane against the ground. 

You have to keep the ground moist so that the cane will produce roots.  The sections where you scored the cane  will produce roots.  Severe the cane from the parent in the fall when the grapes become dormant and roots have developed.  Last thing you will do is to dig up the rooted grape and plant it in your desired location.

The properly care of Scuppernong grapes you must fertilize them regularly.  Apply half a pound of 10-10-10 after planting.  Spread the fertilizer on either side of the vines a foot from the bases.  Apply another light sprinkling in late May or early June.  In the second year, apply double the amount.  Each year thereafter, apply 2 pounds of fertilizer in March and half a pound in June.  The scuppernong or muscadine grapevine (Vitis rotundifolia) is a fast-growing deciduous vine that can produce grapes for more than 50 years.  It is used for fruit, wine and shade.

Picture taken May 13, 2011. This picture show lots of new growth. I pruned this grapevine back February.

                                                                                                                                

 Years in the past shows Muscadine shows this same grapevine along with 2 others that I didn’t know were all planted together.  All 3 growing together making it rootbound.  It was very dry and wasn’t producing grapes like it should have.  All the fertilizing that I had done in the past was not helping.  Fertilizer cold never reach the roots.  This year after cutting it all the way back I now have 2 grapevines.  I am hoping that by seperating them that they will be more fruitful.  I’ve fertilized it with 10-10-10.  I have been watering regularly every other day.  Now only time will tell.  So far it is looking very healthy and seems to be growing very fast.   Click here to see grapevine MUSCADINE Grapevine 2009.  This page I had posted when it was growing but badly rootbound.

PINK BEGONIA May 11, 2011


2 weeks ago.  I planted these Pink Begonias in my window boxes this year.  Begonias are a landscaper’s favorite. Superior performance with lots of color punch. They look great all summer until frost. Unlike some plants, begonias will bloom all summer without fizzling out with the summer heat. Little maintenance in the landscape provides an extra benefit. Dead-heading is not necessary. Bronze leaf varieties are best for use in the sun. Try green leaf varieties for shady spots.  Website  Begonia Flowers more info.    E How.com….on growing Begonias

Pink Begonia

Flowers in Bloom May 2011


Purple Periwinkle (Vinc Minor) April 2011 Oh how I love the sweet fragrance these flowers have.

Purple Periwinkle

This is a Bluish Purple Periwinkle.  I have this growing under my office window.  Early moring and late evenings while windows are up I can smell the sweetest smell as a breeze from the outside comes rushing in. 

Pictured below is a Beautiful

Red Gladiolus (link) for more info.

Gladiolus

Impatients

I keep these in the shade at all times.   I have to keep them watered or else they droop very quickly.  They are so Impatient when it comes to watering.

Care for Impatients Flowers:

(GREAT TIP) If they start looking leggy late in the summer, trim off the top third of their vegetation. This will promote the emergence of new impatient flowers, plus the plants will look better overall.

Uses for Impatiens Flowers:

Impatiens flowers are one of the dominant bedding plants in North America, especially for shaded areas. They are also used in container gardens, ranging from hanging baskets to window boxes.

Origin of the Name for Impatients Flowers:

Impatiens flowers take their name from the Latin, impatiens, “impatient.” They are so called because their ripe seed pods will sometimes burst open from even a light touch (as if they were “impatient” to open). This characteristic is especially apparent in a relative named, “jewelweed,” indigenous to eastern North America.

Tomatoes Full Bloom 4/27/2011


Celebrity Tomatoes:  This variety is my favorite again this year. And now in full bloom.  Starting out so far so good. This is the first blooms and tomatoes.  My mouth is watering with just the smell at each touch of the leaves.  Such a wonderful fragrance.  These are the first of my pictures this year.  At this time the weather is great except for it being very dry at the moment.  No rain have we had in over 3 weeks.  Looks to be a dry year again. 

Celebrity Tomatoes Picture here is first of blooms 4/28/2011

Planting:  This year I planted each plant by digging deep whole and placing each tomatoe plant into hole with at least half of the plant covered with soil.  I first removed bottom leaves of each plant only leaving 2 branches of leaves sticking up from the ground.  I was told by a friend that this encourages more strength to the bush and root system. 

  

Fertilize:  I fertilized with 10-10- 10 very little after a week of being planted.  Lime: Tomatoes are lime lovers, and greener upper they absorb quickly so I only put aproxmately 2 tablespoons of lime around each plant  to start out with.  Then as plant gets bigger I monitor each plant according to how green it is.  I also think it keeps down tomatoe plant deseases.  Always watering plant at the base only is another thing I think keeps plant healthy and green.  Everyone may have other tips on growing tomatoes.  Please leave comments as to how your tomatoes are doing such as tips and tricks according to what state you live in is very important. 

Important Note: We can always add lime fertilizer but…remember we can’t take it away once it has been added to the soil.  Many vegetables according to soil by state and lacation varies with applying any kind of fertilizer.

Picture taken 4/28/2011 See here is first tomatoe

 Here is a Website I have found very useful information at growing tomatoes, diseases etc.  Click here   Also info adding  Epsom Salt, Magnesium to your vegetables Click here.

Miniature Roses 4/27/11


MINIATURE ROSE: This is a 10 year old Miniature Rose Bush or should I say pictured here are 2 bushes into one. Years ago when I purchased this. I wasn't expecting this to be 2 different colors pink and red as you see here. A very small beauty here 10 years ago I was only paying for one which what I saw was a red color only. No pink did I see. Now over the years I have had many compliments on these roses. They are growing well together this year. Most of the Spring and Summer is when these are in bloom. I must admit I enjoy this rosebush better than my larger ones. I call it my climbing Miniature Rose. I have it intertwined on my chain link fence. It seems to be bigger and bigger every year. Full of blooms even after no pruning.

Miniture Roses
These little fellows are real roses, just like their bigger relatives. You can expect the same dependable blooming habits, the same show of many colors, and the same versatility in using them in the garden. You can also expect the same care requirements, such as adequate water, control against pests, and a good growing media, reinforced with a well-balanced fertilizer. Follow these few suggestions and you will be enjoying your “minis” for a long time.

Location: Always give these roses a location in the full sun, with a bare minimum of four hours a day. The closer you display them to eye level the more you will be able to enjoy them; so a raised planter would be ideal. Other locations could be; in a rock garden, on a hillside or mound, even in a hanging basket, or as a tubbed plant on a patio. Get them up close so they can be seen and enjoyed to the fullest.

 Watering: Probably the most important aspect of caring for your miniature rose is its constant need for adequate water. Because it has such a fine root system it is necessary to make sure the plant does not have a period of drought. Daily watering is recommended, especially for container plants.

Soil Mixtures: Eventually you will either plant your new rose in the ground, or move it to a large container. A good soil mix is one that will allow those fine roots to continue to grow easily. Moisture retention is very important to remember. Use any commercial planting mix, but supplement it with some peat moss or vermiculite to help on the moisture retention. Be sure your mixture is well dampened before you put the rose into it. Take extra care for about a week until you transplanted rose has adjusted to its new home. Mulching always helps to protect the roots and prevents the soil from drying out too quickly.

Fertilizing: All rose respond better if fertilized frequently. Miniature rose like a feeding of any balanced fertilizer about once every 3 or 4 weeks. A liquid type is usually more useful to the plant immediately, but don’t make the solution too strong. A slow release fertilizer like “Osmocote” is recommended once or twice a year. I like to use 10-10-10.  I do this by digging small holes around base of bush  then watering it every day for at least 4 days.

Pruning: Your rose can be pruned at any time of the year. You actually do this whenever you pick a flower. Don’t allow long branches to develop on their own, but rather, keep the plant shaped as it grows. Remember, that by removing dead flowers as they occur you insure more continuous blooming. When your plant lose its leaves in the winter, do some heavy pruning by removing about 1/3 to 1/2 of the thinner branches, and cut the others back about the same amount. Sharp pruning will ensure good blooms the following year, because this will stimulate new growth, and the rose blooms on this new growth.

Protection: You will find that your miniature rose is very hardy and does not need any winter protection in this area. Do not fret over your rose! Enjoy it! With reasonable care of those things I have mentioned you will soon find that you have a very enjoyable plant, a great conversation piece, and a welcome addition to your garden or home.